Off The Menu: Harissa is poised to become next big thing

Side of harissa (red-chili sauce)


Watch out srirachi! Harissa is poised to become the next big thing in cutting edge restaurant cookery.

Srirachi is, of course, the traditional Thai dipping sauce compounded from chili peppers, vinegar, garlic, salt, and sugar. It's rocketed to popularity in this country thanks to a version produced by Irwindale, California-based Huy Fong Foods. Over the last five years, srirachi has evolved from fad to condiment staple, a progression that reflects an increasing consumer preference for big, bold flavors.

Now harissa, a North African seasoning paste, is popping up on more and more restaurant menus. A paste of chili peppers and oil, harissa has multidimensional flavor nuances, thanks to the inclusion of garlic, lemon, cumin, coriander, and other spices.

Traditionally used as a marinade or table sauce, harissa has captured the imagination of today's inventive young chefs, who are finding multiple roles for the mixture, using it to enliven sauces, dips, and butters as well as employing it in more traditional ways.

Another attractive aspect of harissa is the ease with which a chef can customize it. Made-in-house versions can easily be adjusted to reflect more or less heat; the mixture can also be tinkered with by adjusting the ratio of spices and sweeteners.

Expect to see harissa play an increasingly prominent role in menu items in the months and years ahead.

Hugh Robert is a faculty member in Holyoke Community College's hospitality and culinary arts program and has over 40 years of restaurant and educational experience. Please send items of interest to Off the Menu at the Republican, P.O. Box 1329, Springfield, MA 01101; Robert can also be reached at OffTheMenuGuy@aol.com

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